My Guide to Northern Kenya: Safaris Off the Beaten Path
Beyond the well-trodden paths of Kenya's southern safari circuits lies a spectacular wilderness waiting to be explored. From the rolling plains of Laikipia to the rugged peaks of the Matthews Range, northern Kenya rewards intrepid travellers with extraordinary experiences away from the Masai Mara crowds.
Laikipia Plateau: Where Conservation Meets Adventure
The Laikipia Plateau represents one of Kenya's greatest conservation success stories. This vast wilderness, stretching from the slopes of Mount Kenya to the northern rangelands, combines luxury eco-lodges with authentic wilderness experiences. Together, Laikipia's conservancies protect over 1.6 million acres of wilderness, supporting the second-highest density of wildlife in Kenya.
Lewa Wildlife Conservancy sets the gold standard for conservation, with its successful rhino breeding programme and innovative community projects. Starting as a small rhino sanctuary in 1983, it has grown into a UNESCO World Heritage Site that's home to over 200 rhinos. Visitors can track rhino on foot, ride horses or camels alongside zebra herds, or take scenic flights over this iconic landscape. The conservancy's partnership with local communities has created a network of schools and clinics, demonstrating how conservation can drive sustainable development.
Ol Pejeta Conservancy, spanning 90,000 acres of savannah grassland, offers extraordinary wildlife encounters alongside cutting-edge conservation technology. Beyond traditional game drives, visitors can meet the anti-poaching dog unit or enjoy night games drives spotting elusive nocturnal species. One of the most moving wildlife I’ve ever had was meeting the last two northern white rhinos here, and the conservancy's work to attempt to preserve the northern white rhinos as a species has garnered international attention, while their chimpanzee sanctuary provides refuge for rescued primates. Their innovative use of conservation technology, including thermal cameras and GPS tracking, offers insights into modern wildlife protection.
El Karama Ranch provides an intimate, family-friendly safari experience where visitors can engage with working ranch life alongside wildlife conservation. Their unique arts programme and bush skills courses offer different perspectives on the African wilderness. The ranch's small size and personal touch allow guests to understand the day-to-day challenges and triumphs of conservation work in northern Kenya.
Sosian Ranch, established in the 1920s, combines working cattle ranch operations with wildlife conservation. The ranch is known for it’s exceptional horse riding safaris, allowing guests to ride alongside giraffe and zebra. Their successful predator conservation program has led to thriving populations of wild dogs and lions, while their regenerative grazing practices showcase sustainable ranching methods.
Loisaba Conservancy, perched on the edge of Kenya's northern rangelands, represents a unique blend of wildlife conservation and community partnership. The conservancy is renowned for its innovative accommodation options, including the famous 'Star Beds' where guests sleep under the African sky on wheeled platforms. The 57,000-acre wilderness supports healthy populations of elephants, lions, and rare species like wild dogs, whilst offering adventures from camel safaris to mountain biking. Loisaba's partnership with the local Samburu and Maasai communities provides a model for sustainable conservation.
Fatu, one of the last two Northern White Rhinos
Meru National Park: Following in Elsa's Footsteps
Made famous by Joy Adamson's "Born Free," Meru National Park remains remarkably uncrowded despite its rich wildlife and diverse landscapes. Thirteen rivers and numerous streams create a network of palm-fringed oases throughout the park, supporting exceptional biodiversity where northern and southern species ranges intersect. Visitors can encounter both traditional safari animals and northern specialists like reticulated giraffe and Grevy's zebra, while the 48-square-kilometre rhino sanctuary protects both black and white rhinos.
The park's remoteness is part of its appeal, offering a genuinely private safari experience with excellent accommodations like the elegant Elsa's Kopje. After nearly succumbing to poaching in the 1980s, Meru's successful rehabilitation represents one of Kenya's most inspiring conservation stories, making it an ideal destination for those seeking both wilderness and historical significance off the beaten track.
Samburu National Reserve: Kingdom of the Northern 5
Samburu's dramatic landscape is defined by the life-giving Ewaso Nyiro River, creating an oasis that attracts abundant wildlife in an otherwise arid environment. The river, lined with doum palms and acacia trees, winds through a landscape characterized by rocky outcrops and kopjes, providing a vital water source for the region's unique fauna.
The reserve is renowned for its 'Samburu Special Five' - reticulated giraffe, Grevy's zebra, gerenuk, beisa oryx, and Somali ostrich. These northern specialists have adapted to the semi-arid conditions and cannot be found in Kenya's southern parks. Large elephant herds regularly visit the river, while leopards are frequently spotted in the riverine forest. Indeed, Samburu hosts one of Kenya's healthiest leopard populations, with several camps becoming famous for exceptional leopard sightings.
Beyond the main reserve, surrounding community conservancies offer more exclusive wildlife experiences. Kalama Conservancy serves as a crucial wildlife corridor while supporting traditional Samburu culture. Namunyak Conservancy extends to the Matthews Range, offering walking safaris and cultural experiences, while West Gate Conservancy has pioneered innovative community-based conservation initiatives.
The Samburu people, close relatives of the Maasai, maintain their traditional lifestyle in the area. Many Samburu warriors (morans) have become exceptional guides, combining traditional tracking skills with formal wildlife training. Visitors can immerse themselves in Samburu culture through village visits, guided walks, and evening talks about traditions and conservation efforts.
Matthews Range: Cloud Forest Wilderness
The Matthews Range (also known as the Mathews Range or Lenkiyio Hills) rises dramatically from the semi-arid plains, creating a unique ecosystem that captures moisture from passing clouds. This 150km-long mountain range reaches heights over 2,000 meters, supporting a surprisingly lush forest ecosystem in contrast to the surrounding arid landscape.
The range encompasses diverse habitats including ancient cedar and yellowwood forests, high-altitude grasslands, deep forested valleys, crystal-clear mountain streams, and natural rock pools and waterfalls. This variety creates a sanctuary for wildlife distinctly different from the surrounding savannah, including one of northern Kenya's largest elephant populations and a healthy population of melanistic (black) leopards. The forests also harbor rare species like the mountain bongo, over 350 bird species including many forest specialists, and unique primates such as de Brazza's monkeys and bush babies.
The Namunyak Wildlife Conservation Trust, managed in partnership with local Samburu communities, offers exceptional experiences including walking safaris led by Samburu guides, fly camping in remote forest glades, cultural visits to Samburu settlements, rock climbing and scrambling, and bird watching in pristine forest habitats. The range's most exclusive accommodation, Kitich Camp, provides an intimate forest experience with just six tents, where walking is the primary activity for tracking wildlife and discovering ancient forest secrets.
The surrounding valleys shelter several Samburu communities who have maintained traditional lifestyles while embracing conservation. Their traditional grazing practices have helped preserve the delicate balance between livestock and wildlife, making the Matthews Range a model for community-based conservation approaches. The combination of pristine wilderness, unique wildlife, and authentic cultural interactions makes this one of northern Kenya's most rewarding destinations for adventurous travelers seeking experiences far from typical tourist routes.
Within the Matthews Range foothills lies one of northern Kenya's most inspiring conservation initiatives - Reteti Elephant Sanctuary. Established in 2016, Reteti is Africa's first community-owned elephant orphanage, nestled in the Namunyak Wildlife Conservation Trust. The sanctuary rescues abandoned and orphaned elephants, providing expert care with the goal of returning them to the wild. What makes Reteti exceptional is that it's staffed entirely by local Samburu people, many of whom were formerly elephant poachers. Women play a significant role as keepers, breaking cultural barriers while developing deep bonds with the elephants. Visitors can tour the sanctuary during feeding times, witnessing the remarkable relationship between keepers and elephants while learning about habitat conservation. The sanctuary's success proves that community-led conservation creates sustainable economic alternatives to poaching while fostering deep connections between people and wildlife.
The surrounding valleys shelter several Samburu communities who have maintained their traditional lifestyle while embracing conservation. Their traditional grazing practices have helped preserve the delicate balance between livestock and wildlife, making the Matthews Range a model for community-based conservation.
Sunset over the Matthews Range
Lake Turkana Region: Ancient Landscapes
For the truly adventurous, the jade waters of Lake Turkana offer an otherworldly experience. While remote, the journey rewards visitors with extraordinary geological formations, ancient fossil sites, and encounters with traditional fishing communities. The lake is also famous for it’s enormous crocodiles! Full disclosure - I’ve never made it this far but desperately want to go, it’s attained mythical status on my wish list. There are a couple of superb operators in Kenya specialising in accessing this area with mobile camping safaris. Alternatively you can take a day trip by helicopter from many of the Laikipia lodges.
Planning Your Northern Kenya Adventure
Best Times to Visit
The prime seasons for exploring northern Kenya are during the dry months (June to September and December to March). However, some lodges operate year-round, and green season visits offer spectacular photography opportunities and reduced rates, perfect for a longer stay!
Where to Stay
Accommodation options range from luxury eco-lodges to mobile camping experiences:
- Luxury lodges in Laikipia's private conservancies, such as Lewa Wilderness, Loisaba Tented Camp and El Karama’s new Nilotica Private House, perfect for families.
- Intimate tented camps in Meru National Park, for example Elewana’s Elsa’s Kopje Camp
- Traditional safari lodges in Samburu, my favourite is Saruni Basecamp’s Saruni Samburu, perched high on rocks overlooking the Kalama Conservancy.
- Matthews Range, here I’d choose one of Sarara’s camps, perfectly located for a visit to Reteti Elephant Sanctuary.
Transportation and Access
Many northern Kenya destinations are accessible by road from Nairobi, though some remote areas require charter flights. Key tips:
- Consider flying into regional airstrips for more remote destinations
- Book guided tours for areas requiring special permits or local knowledge
- Allow enough time between destinations to appreciate each unique ecosystem
Cultural Considerations
Northern Kenya is home to diverse traditional communities including Samburu, Borana, and Rendille peoples. Respecting local customs and supporting community conservation initiatives enhances your experience while contributing to sustainable tourism.
These extraordinary destinations offer authentic wilderness experiences without the crowds of more famous parks. Whether tracking rare species in Laikipia, walking ancient elephant paths in the Matthews Range, or discovering Meru's hidden valleys, northern Kenya provides adventures that will forever change your perspective on African safari.
When planning safaris in this region I use reputable operators who understand northern Kenya's unique characteristics and support local conservation efforts. The rewards of venturing into these less-visited regions include not just extraordinary wildlife sightings, but also the chance to experience one of Africa's most diverse and culturally rich landscapes.