OK Winter, I’m ready (ish) for you!
My trip to Zambia should see me through the next few months..
📸 As usual all photos - good, bad and fuzzy - are my own unless otherwise credited.
I'm just about set up to face winter after a heavenly couple of weeks in Zambia's Lower Zambezi National Park and the South Luangwa Valley. I explored some new places and spent some really brilliant time at the wonderful Flatdogs Camp - one of my all-time favourites.
I find that time away in Africa's wild gives me so much more than just lovely animals! A safari wouldn't be complete without amazing wildlife, but I also find the down time before, between, and after game drives deeply restorative and peaceful.
It's about waking up to rosy dawn skies and hearing nothing manmade, just the sounds of the bush as it wakes and warms. The depth and variety of birdsong has to be heard to be believed. Out in the bush, the air smells different—of woodsmoke, dust, and vegetation. The genuine warmth and humor of the people you meet is continually joyful; I spend a lot more time laughing when I’m in Africa. The amount of space and lack of technology is liberating.
And after the technicolour wonder of (pretty much every) sunset, the darkness of the night skies and visibility of the Milky Way is just awe inspiring.
If you need a dose of this over the winter it’s not too late - please give me a call or drop me an email!
Giving Back - Safari as a force for good
When I started my small (but perfectly formed!) safari business , I made a commitment to partner with camps and organisations that contribute meaningfully to their local communities. This includes not just wildlife conservation, but also supporting the people who live alongside wildlife. I believe travel should be a force for good, and I see the positive impact every time I visit Africa. My clients also appreciate that their holidays have a purpose beyond personal enjoyment.
Across Africa, tourism provides immense benefits, not only in terms of wildlife conservation but also by supporting vital healthcare, education, and business initiatives. One area that is particularly close to my heart is how tourism helps improve the lives of women in rural communities, many of whom face barriers to education and are bound by traditional roles.
During my safaris, I’ve had the pleasure of flying with female pilots in Botswana and Zambia, and I’ve met many female camp managers, guides, and aspiring trainees. One inspiring example is Asilia’s Dunia Camp in Tanzania, which is entirely run by women. The camp radiates a warm and welcoming atmosphere, which may not be a coincidence! Another trailblazing example is Chobe Game Lodge in Botswana, which boasts the country’s first and only all-female guiding team.
During my last trip to Zambia, I saw firsthand the impact of several organizations that are funded by tourism. In the South Luangwa Valley, Project Luangwa is a far-reaching initiative that supports education, gender equality, health, sports, and environmental conservation. Since its inception in 2010, the project has improved countless lives. Their latest endeavor is the ambitious JK Centre for Learning and Sport, which is being developed in Mfuwe.
On a few game drives in South Luangwa, I encountered researchers from the Zambia Carnivore Project (ZCP) conducting fieldwork. The ZCP is dedicated to conserving large carnivores and the ecosystems they inhabit, playing a key role in protecting Zambia’s wild dog population. Their work goes beyond research—they also educate communities about living with wildlife, helping to reduce costs associated with human-wildlife conflict, and promoting the benefits of conservation.
All my preferred lodges in South Luangwa support Project Luangwa and/or the Zambia Carnivore Project, ensuring that tourism continues to play a vital role in preserving wildlife and uplifting local communities.
Hyenas, and why to love them
Disney’s Lion King has a lot to answer for and I’m here to put the records straight! Hyenas are one of my favourite animals and I don’t feel like I’ve arrived in the bush until I hear a hyena’s whooping call in the night.
They are fascinating and often misunderstood creatures that play a crucial role in Africa's ecosystems. The family Hyaenidae includes four species: the spotted (or laughing) hyena, the striped hyena, the secretive brown hyena, and the smaller and insectivorous aardwolf.
The spotted hyena is the largest and most often sighted species, and the one you’re most likely to see and hear on safari. The striped hyena is much more nocturnal, I’ve only seen them a couple of times in daylight. Brown hyenas are also nocturnal and whilst they are widespread they are hard to see - Namibia’s Skeleton coast is a good place to find them as they prey on the seal colonies there. Aardwolves are insect eaters, mainly feeding on termites, and you can spot them in grassland in the Kalahari.
Hyenas have some of the most powerful jaws in the animal kingdom, which help them crush and eat bone. While they are often thought of as scavengers, spotted hyenas are skilled hunters, with up to 95% of their diet coming from animals they kill themselves. They hunt in highly organised packs, bringing down prey much larger than themselves.
Socially, spotted hyenas live in complex matriarchal societies where females are larger and more dominant than males. These clans can consist of up to 80 individuals, making them one of the most socially complex mammalian species. Hyenas communicate through a wide range of vocalisations, including their famous "laugh," which actually signals social status or excitement. Despite their reputation as villains in popular culture, hyenas are vital to maintaining the health of ecosystems by controlling herbivore populations and alongside vultures acting as the clean up crew, which helps prevent the spread of disease.
Destination Focus - South Africa Part 1
South Africa is a top choice for safari lovers, thanks to its well-established tourism infrastructure and easy access via direct flights from the UK to Johannesburg and Cape Town.
Given the size of the country and the sheer amount of things to do, I’m breaking my overview of South Africa into (at least!) two parts. This time I’m focussing on safari, while the next will cover other highlights such as the Winelands, the Garden Route, Cape Town, and more. There's just too much to cover in depth here, so I’m giving a quick overview. Feel free to reach out if you'd like more detail on anything!
Safari in South Africa Made Easy
South Africa offers safari options for every kind of traveler. The Kruger National Park and the surrounding private reserves boast some of the best game viewing in Africa, making it my top recommendation for those who are eager to spot the Big 5. The Greater Kruger area is enormous—the national park itself is about the size of Wales, and the surrounding reserves bring the total area to nearly 20,000 square kilometers.
Kruger National Park is a great option for self-drivers and budget travelers. SANParks (South Africa National Parks) offers a variety of reasonably priced accommodation, from safari houses to simple safari tents. However, Kruger can get crowded during school holidays, especially in the more accessible southern region, which can feel a bit zoo-like at times.
For a more intimate experience, I suggest staying in one of the private reserves bordering Kruger, such as Sabi Sands, Timbavati, Thornybush, or the lesser-known Manyeleti. These reserves share unfenced borders with Kruger and offer fantastic game viewing. Accommodation options range from ultra-luxurious (think Cheetah Plains) to more budget-friendly choices like Honeyguide Tented Camps.
The Kruger area is easily accessible by air with short flights from Johannesburg to Hoedspruit, Kruger Mpumalanga International Airport, or Skukuza.
Madikwe Game Reserve
Located in North West Province along the Botswana border, Madikwe is another popular Big 5 reserve, home to a strong population of wild dogs. The reserve offers a variety of accommodations, some of which are great for families with young children, such as Jaci’s Safari Lodge and Morukuru (an exclusive-use option). Madikwe is easily accessible from Johannesburg by road or air and has the added bonus of being malaria-free, which makes it an ideal choice for families or those who prefer not to take anti-malarials.
Marataba and Marakele
Located in South Africa's Limpopo Province, these lesser known reserves offer stunning natural beauty and great wildlife. Marataba is a private luxury safari concession within Marakele National Park, known for its "Big Five" wildlife and some lovely luxe lodges. Marakele, meaning "place of sanctuary" in Tswana, is a larger public national park covering about 67,000 hectares. It features diverse landscapes from mountains to bushveld plains and is home to various wildlife, including the world's largest colony of Cape vultures.
KwaZulu-Natal Reserves
On the eastern side of the country, KwaZulu-Natal offers a unique safari experience with a noticeably different landscape from the northern reserves. This region is rich in biodiversity, featuring ecosystems such as savannah, grasslands, coastal forests, wetlands, and riverine gorges, which support a wide variety of wildlife and bird species. Phinda Private Game Reserve is the most well-known here, offering luxury accommodation spread across various ecosystems. For a more affordable option, Zuka Game Reserve, located next door, is a great alternative.
Eastern Cape Reserves
If you’re looking for a quick, convenient safari experience while exploring the Garden Route or Cape Town, the private reserves in the Eastern Cape are a good option. These reserves are also malaria-free and often home to the Big 5, making them ideal for first-time safari-goers. However, for a more authentic experience, I’d recommend the Kruger area or Madikwe over these reserves, as they tend to offer a deeper safari experience.
That’s a brief look at South Africa’s safari options! Stay tuned for the next part where I’ll dive into the Winelands, Cape Town, Drakensberg and more. In the meantime please feel free to reach out if you need any help planning your dream trip!
Why I ❤️ South Africa
Incredibly easy to get to and really well established tourism infrastructure
Wide variety of landscapes
Lots of accommodation options from easy camping to ultra-luxe
Budget friendly
All year round destination
Who is South Africa good for?
Great for an easy first time safari or as a means of combining a safari and city break, you really can’t beat the Safari, Winelands and Cape Town itinerary. South Africa also has lovely beaches on the Eastern coast, so you can have it all within a single country.
Q&A - Can I stay connected on a safari?
Don’t take connectivity for granted, it’s always good to check what your communication options will be before you go away, or even before choosing a lodge.
For those of you wanting a complete digital detox a safari is a brilliant option. In many African countries internet access is difficult or expensive or both! Some camps, particularly in Botswana, are proudly Wi-Fi free so if you really need to disconnect your kids let me know and we’ll choose one of these 😉
If it’s important to you to stay connected it’s possible to do so almost everywhere, although internet speed is usually a lot slower than UK speeds, and rarely suitable for streaming video, but more than adequate for Instagram and Facebook gloating. Some camps restrict access to in room only, while others only have wi-fi in public areas, so again, its worth checking before you choose a lodge.
Another way to stay online is to purchase a local sim card. This has worked well for me in South Africa and Kenya which have good, reliable mobile phone networks. Or, if your phone will take an eSim you can use apps such as Airalo to buy a local virtual sim.
Charging points are available in all camps, although in more rustic or remote camps these will be dependent on solar and might only be available in public areas. At the other end of the spectrum some camps have vehicles equipped with usb points and 3 pin plugs which is really handy if you’ve forgotten to charge your camera batteries before setting out.
Just in case of emergencies I always take a power bank with me like this Anker one which doesn’t weigh much and is good for a couple of charges of my phone or iPad.
📷 Photo of me working remotely: Sean Fleming
This month’s special offer is a little different
I recently upgraded my old Canon Digital SLR camera to a flashy new mirrorless version (R7 if you’re interested – I love it and it’s far cleverer than I am!) and I wanted to try out a telephoto lens, so for my Zambia trip I hired a lens from lensesforhire.co.uk and I was so impressed by their service that I’ve negotiated a special discount code for my clients, so if you would like to elevate your safari experience with a great camera and or lens let’s chat and I’ll send you the code.
My hired lens helped me capture this lovely leopard - which I’m quite pleased with
What’s coming up in November’s blog?
Destination Madagascar - let’s get weird and wonderful
Creature Feature - Lemurs & Chameleons
Safari Q&A - Solo Safaris
Special Offers and more…
Please don’t forget that I write this for you, so if there is anything you’d like to see more or less of please let me know!!